The question is always the same: "I want it screen-printed, no embroidery." And almost always the correct answer is different, because the technique isn't chosen by your preference: it's chosen by the fabric.

Putting a logo on a cotton t-shirt and putting it on a 90-gram cycling jersey are two different engineering problems, even if the design is the same. Here's what each technique does, and more importantly, what it breaks.

- Sublimation

The ink turns into gas with heat and bonds to the polyester fiber. No layer remains on top: the color becomes part of the fabric.

This means it doesn't add weight, doesn't crack, doesn't peel, and doesn't block breathability. You can stretch the garment until it deforms, and the design remains. It is, by far, the correct technique for cycling, running, and trail clothing, and it's why a team jersey features the design throughout the garment without being noticeable to the touch.

Its two limitations are strict. It only works on polyester, so it's not suitable for cotton. And it doesn't print white: white is the color of the base fabric, so it's sublimated onto light-colored fabric, and designs are created with this in mind.

- Screen Printing

Ink is pushed through a mesh, leaving a layer on top of the fabric. This is the classic technique and is excellent for cotton: flat, saturated, and durable colors.

Problems arise with lightweight technical fabrics, and it's important to be clear. That layer of ink doesn't breathe. On a 100-gram trail t-shirt, a large logo on the back is an area that stops ventilating exactly where you sweat the most. And since technical fabric stretches much more than cotton, the ink accompanies that stretch until it no longer does: then it cracks.

It works for small logos in non-stretching areas. For a large design on technical apparel, no.

There's also a cost detail that surprises people: each color requires its own screen. A three-color design costs three times the setup. For short runs, that outweighs the ink cost.

- Vinyl

A film applied with heat and pressure. It's the cheapest and fastest option, which is why it's used for race numbers and last-minute orders.

It's also what ages the worst. It peels at the corners, cracks when folded, and offers absolutely no breathability. Flocking, which is the velvety version, also adds bulk and heat.

For a race bib, it's perfect. For a garment you want to wear for three seasons, no.

- Embroidery

Thread stitched into the garment. It's the most durable technique and best communicates quality: it never peels because nothing is glued on.

But it perforates the fabric and adds weight and stiffness. On a cap, a sweatshirt, or a cotton garment, it looks unbeatable. On a lightweight 90-gram stretch fabric, embroidery creates a stiff area that doesn't conform to the body, pulls at the edges, and, if the stitch is dense, can even chafe the skin on long rides.

Embroidery for lifestyle, yes. Embroidery on a jersey, only for very small details and in non-stretching areas.

- Jacquard, which is not printing

Nothing is printed on socks: the design is woven. The machine changes threads and builds the design within the sock's own structure.

That's why a well-made logo on a sock cannot peel or crack: it's not on top, it is the sock. It's the most durable technique available, with the trade-off that it requires designing with threads, not pixels. Fine gradients and very thin fonts cannot be woven.

- How to decide, in one sentence

Choose the technique based on the fabric, not the other way around.

Technical polyester and large design: sublimation. Cotton and solid colors: screen printing. Cap, sweatshirt, or casual garment with logo: embroidery. Sock: jacquard. And vinyl only if it's for one day.

If someone offers to screen print a large design on a lightweight technical garment and doesn't mention breathability or cracking, they're not thinking about the garment: they're thinking about the machine they have available.

We choose the technique during the design phase, according to the garment and its use, and it's included in the project. You can see how we work on custom cycling clothing, custom running and trail clothing, cycling socks, and running and trail socks.

- Frequently Asked Questions

What technique is best for a cycling jersey? Sublimation. The ink integrates into the polyester fiber, so it doesn't add weight, doesn't block breathability, and doesn't crack when stretched. It's what's used in any well-made technical kit.

Can a trail t-shirt be screen printed? It can, but with discretion. Screen printing leaves a layer of ink that doesn't breathe and can crack on very elastic fabrics. It works for small logos and non-stretching areas; for a large design on the back, it's not the correct option.

Does embroidery damage technical fabric? It doesn't damage it, but it stiffens it. Embroidery perforates the fabric and adds stiffness and weight, so on elastic and lightweight garments, it's limited to small details. On caps, sweatshirts, and cotton, it's the best option.

Why does a sock logo never peel off? Because it's not printed: it's woven. In hosiery, the design is created with jacquard, changing threads during weaving, so it's part of the sock's structure.

Which technique is the cheapest? Vinyl. It also ages the worst: it peels, cracks, and doesn't breathe. It's reasonable for a race number or a one-day event, not for a seasonal garment.